Hamburg  - Courageous, fashion-conscious women will reach for overalls made from denim or jersey this summer.

But that's just a fashion phenomenon for certain occasions. At the other end of the style scale, designers have rediscovered office clothing, reshaping it with unconventional tailoring and using new fabrics to give suits and trousers suits a new, detailed look.

"The classic trouser suit offers new details," said the Munich-based style consultant Georg Stiels after viewing collections for summer 2009. Shorter trouser legs, shorter sleeves and new blazer styles are just some of the ideas in the new creations. The so-called new suit had a place alongside the dress and blouse at the core of the new women's fashion collections.

The more form-fitting outfits are being rejuvenated thanks to the zeitgeist.

"Everything has to look very casual and optimistic, particularly in business," said Elke Giese, a trend expert at Germany's fashion institute in Berlin. Elegant clothing should also look relaxed so that the wearer gives the impression of "flexibility, dynamism and well-being."

Style consultant Stephanie Diekmann of Berlin finds practicality in the trend.

"If I wear a suit or chic trouser suit to the office, I can go straight to an after-work party or a private opening of an art exhibit without having to change clothes," said Diekmann. She said new fabrics have broken through earlier constrictions. "While scratchy cotton previously limited the wearability of a suit, now softer material gives more of a comfort factor - for example, wool, linen and silk fabrics are refined with cashmere."

The style of this season's trouser suits resembles that of the 1980s. Their simplicity is complemented with feminine accents. Fully in trend are carrot-shaped trouser legs and long blazers with well-defined shoulders. Pastel nuances, such those found in the lines of designers Stella McCartney and Giorgio Armani add an extra, retro touch. The designers show their love of detail by including small pockets.

The Burberry and COS labels have suits with Marlene trousers, while Benetton also has wide trouser legs. Extra-long blazers can be found in Windsor's designs. When the tailoring of the blazer becomes so modern, women select darker colours rather than wearing something unsuitable to the office.

"Trouser suits in black, dark blue or grey are most suitable in a business environment," said Diekmann. "Women who wear them radiate competence and respectability."

An elegant trouser suit can also be appropriate as evening wear provided it is combined with the right accessories. "Piling on is allowed," said Ingo Brack of the style school Esmod in Munich. "As the trouser suit is somewhat withdrawn, flashy earrings, extra-large chains and a small, metallic clutch are especially chic."

Suits in new fabrics and designs with creative details are also on the way. Wolfgang Joop's label Wunderkind includes a biker-style blazer with quilting on the shoulders, zipped pockets, colourful buttons and silk lining. Ralph Lauren has created a tailored blazer in wool with a stiff collar and inserts of leopard prints and edged pockets. The A-line skirt falls just over the knee.

"Colourful stockings go wonderfully with the suit - something that is completely in style this season," said Brack. Larger women, however, should stick with uniform colours, he added. Big patterns or lace look best on long, thin legs. "Despite that, large women can look well in a suit as long as they don't go for the narrowly cut ones."

After cut, fabric is the most important thing when selecting a suit. Wool is very warm and less suitable for the office. Linen, a comparatively cooler summer fabric, wrinkles easily, said Brack. Thus, trouser suits made of blended fabrics are more practical for the office, he said. A slight stretch quality makes them more comfortable while sitting. (dpa)