Beavers, bears regular companions while camping in Adirondack Park

Beavers, bears regular companions while camping in AdirondackLake Placid, US  - As the canoe glides slowly across the lake in the early morning, only the sound of loons diving rises above the steady slapping of the paddles.

The fog covering the water slowly recedes, revealing another boat on the shore. Its occupants could very well be off watching beavers or turtles.

As it all comes together, it becomes clear: a visit to Adirondack Park in the US state of New York, just south of the Canadian border, offers something for outdoor enthusiasts that is next to impossible to find in Europe.

City dwellers take a while to get used to the isolation. The Adirondacks are about a half day's drive - about 450 kilometres - from the nonstop hubbub of New York.

The name is derived from the American Indian tribes that used to live in this area. And, sitting out among the stars, grilling some meat over an open fire, it's easy to feel like a true tenderfoot.

John Preston, a student, loves the quiet of nature. He spends his vacation guiding tours through the territory under the mandate of the state park service's Fish Creek Pond Campgrounds, the quietest corners of which are designated as official wilderness.

John can find the way to giant dams built by beavers. He knows exactly which birds are brooding and knows the hiding places of the otter.

Carefully, he steps over a fairy ring of mushrooms, only to kneel down abruptly. With a small stick, he pokes at a brown pile, breaking free small clumps.

"Oh, interesting. This is bear dung," he says. "The dark parts are blueberries that haven't been thoroughly digested. Sweet berries are bears' favourite food."

About 6,000 black bears live in the Adirondacks. The chances of spotting one are relatively high in the mountainous High Peaks region near Lake Placid.

"The bears have gotten really good at hunting through our guests' trash to find food," says the state park's spokesman David Winchell. "But we have the problem under control. The camping and rest sites in the affected region have metal lockers for food and trash. No bear can get into those and they're starting to move along."

The attractions of this New York forest dotted with mountain lakes - now protected as a national park - have impressed many over the years, including the Rockefellers. They built a country house - rustic on the outside, luxurious inside - along Saranac Lake, one of the park's many lakes.

Many have since taken the example to heart. "After the September 11, 2001 attacks, a lot of people out of New York bought houses up here, so they could have a place where they could feel safe when things get serious," said Winchell.

But the Adirondacks have a lot more to offer than safety from terrorist attacks.

"They come up here for the weekend, but are back in the bar in Manhattan Sunday evening and telling people that they just saw an eagle that morning and were out hunting in the afternoon," says Winchell.

Even if you're not lucky enough to have a house right on the water, there are plenty of beautiful spots for setting up a tent or parking an RV along the Saranac. Fish Creek Pond is one of the most beautiful camping sites in the park. All of its 300 spots sit under trees directly on the water. Most of them are easily accessible, even with a large vehicle.

Information: New York State Division of Tourism, European Office, Seeleitn 65, 82541 Muensing, GERMANY (Tel: ++ 49 8177 955 95 06, Email: Robert.Keysselitz@nyseurope.com).

Internet: www. visitadirondacks. com, www. fishcreekpond. com. (dpa)